I'd walked past Bootsie's several times before its opening, each time with mounting curiosity. The name sounded to me like a mecca for New Orleans-style comfort food, Louis Armstrong's version of "When the Saints Go Marchin' In" playing over the sound system.

Then Daily Candy informed me that Bootsie's was a different kind of fast food experience. Burgers and dogs, but with gourmet ingredients. It wasn't gumbo, but they'd still have andouille sausage on the menu. That was a start, in my book.

I landed at Bootsie's on Friday night between Fringe shows. The prices were a little steeper than I'd anticipated (a kobe beef burger will run you eleven bucks, but then, it's kobe beef), and the menu seemed suspiciously free of healthy options (not a salad to be found), but there were so many toppings to choose from that I wasn't thinking too much about these things. My head was spinning and it was my turn to order and... Oh god, mango salsa or mandarin orange jerk sauce on my Andouille? I opted for the mandarin orange jerk sauce, and added a glass of fresh limeade for good measure. One of my companions ordered a black angus burger with cheese and caramelized onions, and a side of Old Bay fries; my other companion was satisfied to just order Bootsie's cheese fries.

While I waited (a long time for fast food), I sipped on my limeade, which I enjoyed, although it was a little sweet for my taste. When I received my sausage, I was a little confused to see that the mandarin orange jerk sauce was almost entirely made of large strips of onion—not what I was expecting, and not necessarily a good thing, due to a minor but irritating food intolerance. I picked the onions out as best as I could and sunk my teeth into what was a very good andouille with the remnants of the jerk sauce (mostly orange pulp) over it. I've found it very hard to get good andouille around here, so I was quite happy. My companion with the cheeseburger was a bit less enthused by her meal, saying it was good, but no better than the burgers she could get elsewhere, and for a similar or better price. I helped her with her fries, though, and I thought they were quite good. The Old Bay seemed to have been fried with them, rather than just sprinkled on top the way "cajun" fries are normally prepared. My companion with the cheese fries actually had a serving of the Old Bay fries with real cheese melted over them, not just the canned liquid cheese you usually end up with when you order cheese fries. They looked quite good, and he seemed perfectly happy with them, as they were gone within a few minutes.

On the whole, Bootsie's is certainly better than your everyday fast food, but it's certainly more expensive, too (especially when you start adding toppings). If you go, go for a specialty sausage, hot dog, or burger as opposed to your everyday variety. It may cost you a little more, but it will also keep you from having the same complaint as my friend. You can get an angus burger at Burger King, but where else are you going to find a kobe beef hot dog?

Bootsie's
38 S. 19th St.
Philadelphia, PA 19103
215.988.0089
Bootsiesphilly.com